PORTLAND TRIBUNE, February 14, 2005

Truffles from Oregon are no trifle — they’re world-class

Truffles long have been known as an aphrodisiac. But if you’re hoping to use them to win someone over, be forewarned: Many diners simply fall in love with the truffles themselves.
   Truffles — the fungus, not the chocolates — rank with caviar and champagne as icons of gourmet decadence. They have the same esoteric allure, part epicurean enjoyment and part difficulty of acquisition. They are as scarce as they are expensive. One pound of top-quality Italian white truffles, today, sells for more than $2,000.
   But a few lucky people can just walk into the forest and pluck truffles straight from the ground. And some of those people live in Oregon.
   European truffles grow on the roots of oak trees. Oregon truffles grow at the base of Douglas firs. Some locals (including the late food expert James Beard) swear they’re as good, or better, than the European varieties. The members of the North American Truffling Society host monthly hunting expeditions from September to June.
   “It’s like a treasure hunt,” says Jim Wells, owner of Oregon Wild Edibles !, in Eugene. This company specializes in wild mushrooms, especially truffles, picked from the surrounding forests.
   Wells is a proponent of Oregon black truffles, which he calls “the premier dessert truffle on the planet.” They’re fruity and versatile, he says, with a subtle flavor that changes from day to day.
   Like many fans, Wells thinks that Oregon truffles are underappreciated. He says people often don’t realize how good the local product is because they taste truffles that have been mishandled. Both black and white varieties are extremely fragile, and a few days can make the difference between superb and dud. European truffles have the advantage of a longer shelf life.
   The European tradition of truffle worship is focused on sensuality and decadence. Oregon’s cult is a bit more geeky. Specialists here are as likely to talk about scientific classifications as they are to swoon over a culinary effect. They also are far more preoccupied with environmental issues.

   Because profits can be so high, truffles pose the potential for ecological damage. Unscrupulous hunters can trash the forest, and sometimes they do. But truffles also demonstrate the interconnection between all parts of the forest. They have a symbiotic relationship with Douglas firs, delivering nutrients to the trees and receiving sugars in return. They also have a symbiotic relationship with animals like the northern flying squirrel, which uses them as food and in return, scatters their reproductive spores.
   As their popularity grows, truffles create a financial incentive for landowners to keep woodlands intact.
   Indeed, this peculiar fungus, which looks like a rock, or maybe a piece of fruit that’s been lost behind the couch for several months, is a valuable commodity. Top black truffles sell for $30 an ounce. The smallest white truffles go for about half that price.
   And a little goes a long way. Sometimes a few shavings are all you need. The dark, musky essence of a truffle migrates easily.
   “A beguiling aspect, just beyond your reach,” is the closest Jack Czarnecki comes to explaining the flavor of truffles, and he knows them better than just about anyone. Czarnecki owns the Joel Palmer House, a restaurant in Dayton that specializes in wild mushrooms. A self-described “rabid truffle fan,” Czarnecki collects his own.
   He recommends not storing them in rice, which prevents them from reabsorbing the moisture they are constantly emitting. He uses the mossy, fruity, almost chocolatey black truffles to create a truffle latte, and likes to bring out the garlicky, buttery essence of white truffles with a cream sauce, over pasta, or just on their own.
   Fresh winter truffles appear in Oregon’s high-end groceries and at farmers markets roughly from November through March (Try the Wednesday market at People’s Food Coop, 3029 S.E. 21st Ave.) Availability is sporadic, and this year, the season looks to be ending early, so get them while you can. Also look out for spring white truffles, which appear for just four to six weeks in March, April or May. Other products such as truffle oil and dried truffles are available year-round.
   Expect to hear a lot more about Oregon truffles. The market has some growing up to do, and converts to make. They’re poised for takeoff, much as some lovers of this mysterious fungi might wish to keep them underground.